The quick answer
Most freestanding electric ranges need a 50 amp, 240-volt circuit (you'll also hear 240V called "220" — same thing) wired with 6 AWG copper. Buy 6/3 with ground cable — two hots, a neutral, and a ground — and land it on a 4-prong NEMA 14-50 outlet. Smaller or efficient ranges are rated 40 amps and use 8 AWG. In aluminum, use 4 AWG (50A). The equipment ground is 10 AWG copper.
For a typical range, grab 6/3 copper NM-B (the heavy black-jacketed cable), a 50 amp double-pole breaker, and a 4-prong 14-50 outlet. But before you buy, glance at the nameplate — if it calls for a 40 amp circuit, drop to 8 AWG. And a gas range isn't 240V at all; it's a regular 120V plug.
40 amp or 50 amp? Read the nameplate
This is the one thing to get right. A range's nameplate (or install manual) states the circuit it needs — and it's usually one of two: most freestanding ranges want a 50 amp circuit, while many newer, efficient models are happy on 40 amps. The bigger the circuit, the bigger the wire: 50 amps → 6 AWG, 40 amps → 8 AWG. Don't guess from the number of burners — the manufacturer already did the math and printed the answer on the back of the range.
Stove / range wire size chart
The two common range circuits, side by side:
| Circuit | Copper wire | Aluminum | Cable | Outlet |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 50 amp range | 6 AWG | 4 AWG | 6/3 | NEMA 14-50 |
| 40 amp range | 8 AWG | 6 AWG | 8/3 | NEMA 14-50 |
| Ground (NEC 250.122) | 10 AWG | 10 AWG | included | — |
Good news on the 50 amp side: 6 AWG copper is rated 55 amps in NM-B "Romex" (the 60°C column), so it clears a 50 amp breaker with room to spare — no conduit-only trap the way 60 amps has. The equipment ground is 10 AWG copper for both the 40 and 50 amp circuit, and it comes built into the cable.
Why a 12 kW range isn't a 60 amp circuit
Add up every burner and the oven and you'd swear a range needs a huge circuit. It doesn't — and that surprises people. The NEC lets you use a demand factor (Table 220.55): a single household range rated up to 12 kW is counted as just 8 kW of load, because you never run every element at full blast at once. Ranges of 8¾ kW or more also get a 40 amp minimum branch circuit (NEC 210.19(A)(3)). That's why even a big range lands on a 40 or 50 amp circuit — not the scary total on the nameplate.
3-prong vs 4-prong (NEMA 14-50 vs 10-50)
Just like a dryer, a range has two possible outlets, and the wall has to match the cord:
| Outlet | Wires | When it's used |
|---|---|---|
| NEMA 14-50 (4-prong) | 2 hot + neutral + ground | Required on all new circuits |
| NEMA 10-50 (3-prong) | 2 hot + neutral | Legacy — existing homes only |
The 4-prong 14-50 has a separate ground and has been required on new range circuits since the 1996 NEC. The old 3-prong 10-50 let the neutral double as the ground — allowed only on circuits from before that change, and grandfathered where it already exists. If your existing 3-prong range works, you can keep using it; the 4-prong rule applies to new and rewired circuits.
Got an old 3-wire outlet and a new 4-prong range? You cannot legally bolt a ground onto the old run or bond neutral-to-ground at the range. The code-compliant fix is to pull a new 6/3 cable to the panel. When the outlet and cord already match, just swap the range's cord to fit — never adapter a 4-prong plug into a 3-prong hole.
Range vs dryer: don't mix them up
They sit next to each other and both are big 240-volt appliances, but they are not the same circuit. A dryer is 30 amps on 10 AWG with a 14-30 outlet; a range is 40–50 amps on 8–6 AWG with a 14-50 outlet. The plugs are even different sizes so you can't cross them. Never tap a dryer circuit to feed a range — it's badly undersized. (Sizing a dryer? See our dryer wire size guide.)
Separate cooktop and wall oven
If your kitchen has a cooktop and a wall oven as two separate units instead of one range, size each to its own nameplate. A cooktop on its own often lands on a 40 amp / 8 AWG circuit; a wall oven varies with its rating. Some installs are allowed to combine a cooktop and one or two ovens on a single circuit — but only when the manufacturer's instructions permit it. When in doubt, one circuit per appliance is the safe default. Our 40 amp wire size page covers the common cooktop case.
Gas range: a 120V plug
A gas range makes its heat from gas, so only the igniter, controls, clock, and light are electric. That means it plugs into an ordinary 120-volt, 15 or 20 amp receptacle wired with 14 or 12 AWG — the same as any wall outlet. No 240 volts, no 50 amp circuit, no special outlet. If you're replacing an electric range with gas, that big 240V circuit simply goes unused.
Long runs and voltage drop
For a normal kitchen, 6 AWG has plenty of headroom. Voltage drop only matters on a long haul — a range on a kitchen island far from the panel, or in an addition.
6 AWG copper at 50A / 240V → about 146 ft one-way.
8 AWG copper at 40A / 240V → about 115 ft. Past those, step up a size to hold the voltage.
The Voltage Drop Calculator checks your exact run, and the AWG ampacity chart has the numbers behind all of this.
Common stove wiring mistakes
The classic is using dryer wire (10 AWG) on a range — it's a 30 amp wire and a range needs 40–50. Close behind: assuming every range is 50 amps when the nameplate says 40 (or the reverse). Others: reusing a 3-prong outlet on a new circuit; forcing an adapter or bonding neutral-to-ground at the range; running 6/2 where a range needs 6/3 (you need the neutral for the 120V controls); buying 240V wire for a gas range; and forgetting voltage drop on a long run. This is permit-and-inspection work, so confirm with your AHJ.
Frequently asked questions
Wire & CircuitWhat size wire do I need for a stove or range?
Wire & CircuitIs a stove a 40 or 50 amp circuit?
Wire & CircuitWhat size wire for a 50 amp range?
Wire & CircuitWhat size wire for a 40 amp stove?
Code & SafetyCan I use dryer wire for a stove?
Wire & CircuitDo I use 6/2 or 6/3 for a range?
Code & SafetyIs a stove outlet 3-prong or 4-prong?
Wire & CircuitWhat size wire for a gas stove?
This guide is for general information based on the National Electrical Code. Requirements vary by NEC edition and your local authority having jurisdiction (AHJ) — 240V appliance circuits are usually permit-and-inspection work. Electrical work can be dangerous, so when in doubt, hire a licensed electrician.