The quick answer
A standard electric dryer needs a 30 amp, 240-volt circuit wired with 10 AWG copper. Buy 10/3 with ground cable — that's two hots, a neutral, and a ground — and land it on a 4-prong NEMA 14-30 outlet. In aluminum, step up to 8 AWG. The equipment ground is 10 AWG copper.
Grab 10/3 copper NM-B (the orange-jacketed cable at the store) for a normal electric dryer and pair it with a 30 amp double-pole breaker and a 4-prong 14-30 outlet. Two things trip people up — 3-prong vs 4-prong, and the fact that a gas dryer isn't 240V at all — and both are covered below.
Why a dryer is a 30 amp, 240 volt circuit
A dryer's heating element pulls a lot of power, so it runs on 240 volts instead of the usual 120 (you'll also hear it called a "220" circuit — same thing, just older wording). A typical electric dryer's nameplate lands it on a 30 amp breaker, and NEC 240.4(D) — the small-conductor rule — pairs a 30 amp breaker with 10 AWG copper (10-gauge copper is rated for exactly 30 amps). This is the same 30 amp logic behind our 30 amp wire size page, applied to the dryer specifically.
A dryer isn't treated as a continuous load — it cycles heat on and off rather than running flat-out for hours — so there's no 125% up-size. A 30 amp breaker on 10 AWG copper is the standard, correct pairing.
Dryer wire size chart
Everything a standard electric-dryer circuit needs, in one place:
| Part | Copper | Aluminum |
|---|---|---|
| Circuit wire | 10 AWG | 8 AWG |
| Equipment ground (NEC 250.122) | 10 AWG | 8 AWG |
| Cable you'd buy | 10/3 w/ ground NM-B | (rare on a dryer) |
| Breaker | 30 A double-pole | 30 A double-pole |
| Outlet (new work) | NEMA 14-30 (4-prong) | NEMA 14-30 |
Copper 10-gauge is what nearly every dryer uses. Aluminum works at 8 AWG (10 AWG aluminum only carries 25 amps, so it's too small), but aluminum is uncommon on a short dryer branch circuit — copper is the norm.
3-prong vs 4-prong (NEMA 10-30 vs 14-30)
This is where most dryer confusion lives. There are two dryer outlets, and the wall and the cord have to match:
| Outlet | Wires | When it's used |
|---|---|---|
| NEMA 14-30 (4-prong) | 2 hot + neutral + ground | Required on all new circuits |
| NEMA 10-30 (3-prong) | 2 hot + neutral | Legacy — existing homes only |
The 4-prong 14-30 has a separate ground and has been required on new dryer circuits since the 1996 NEC. The old 3-prong 10-30 let the neutral double as the ground — allowed only on circuits installed before that change, and grandfathered where it already exists. So if your existing 3-prong dryer is running fine, you're allowed to keep using it — the 4-prong rule applies to new and rewired circuits, not to every old outlet in the country.
If you have an old 3-wire outlet and a new 4-prong dryer, you cannot legally bolt a ground onto the old run or bond neutral-to-ground at the dryer. The safe, code-compliant fix is to pull a new 10/3 cable back to the panel. The quick, correct move when both already match is to swap the dryer's cord to match the outlet you have — never use an adapter to force a 4-prong plug into a 3-prong hole.
10/3 vs 10/2: which cable
A dryer uses 10/3 with ground, not 10/2. The 14-30 outlet needs both hots, a neutral, and a ground — the dryer's drum motor, controls, and light actually run on 120 volts pulled off that neutral, while the heating element uses the full 240. 10/2 with ground (two conductors plus ground, no neutral) is for a straight-240V load like an electric water heater — not a dryer.
Gas dryer: just a 120V plug
A gas dryer makes its heat from gas, so only the drum motor, controls, and light are electric. That means it plugs into an ordinary 120-volt, 15 or 20 amp receptacle — the same kind of outlet as a lamp or a toaster, wired with 14 or 12 AWG. No 240 volts, no 30 amp circuit, no special outlet. If you've got a gas dryer, don't buy heavy 10-gauge wire — you don't need it.
Long runs and voltage drop
For a normal laundry room, 10 AWG has plenty of headroom. Voltage drop only becomes a factor on a long haul — say a dryer in a detached garage or a far corner of the basement.
10 AWG copper → about 96 ft one-way. Most laundry runs are well under that. For a run past ~90 ft, step up to 8 AWG to keep the voltage where it should be.
The Voltage Drop Calculator checks your exact run, and the AWG ampacity chart has the numbers behind all of this.
Common dryer wiring mistakes
The big one is reusing an old 3-prong outlet on a new circuit — new work must be 4-wire. Right behind it: forcing an adapter or bonding neutral-to-ground at the dryer to make a 4-prong plug fit a 3-prong hole. Others: running 10/2 where a dryer needs 10/3 (you need the neutral); buying 240V wire for a gas dryer that only needs 120V; undersizing to 12 AWG (that's a 20 amp wire, not 30); and forgetting voltage drop on a long garage run. As always, this is often permit-and-inspection work, so confirm with your AHJ.
Frequently asked questions
Wire & CircuitWhat size wire do I need for a dryer?
Wire & CircuitIs a dryer a 30 amp circuit?
Wire & CircuitDo I use 10/2 or 10/3 for a dryer?
Code & SafetyWhat size wire for a 30 amp dryer?
Code & SafetyIs a dryer outlet 3-prong or 4-prong?
Code & SafetyCan I add a ground to a 3-prong dryer outlet?
Wire & CircuitWhat size wire for a gas dryer?
Wire & CircuitWhat size ground wire for a dryer circuit?
This guide is for general information based on the National Electrical Code. Requirements vary by NEC edition and your local authority having jurisdiction (AHJ) — 240V appliance circuits are usually permit-and-inspection work. Electrical work can be dangerous, so when in doubt, hire a licensed electrician.